BUSA 1/4 Scale Fokker Dr 1
#53
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First click on the Image icon in the tools menu of the Reply editor box.
Once this comes up you will have the choice of uploading files from a URL on the internet, or uploading from you computer.
Once you have the files selected for upload click on "Upload Files" to upload the files to RCU.
One the files are uploaded you will now have the ability to move the images around inside the editor box so that the images appear where you want them to.
Let me know if you still have any problems.
Hope this helps.
Ken
Once this comes up you will have the choice of uploading files from a URL on the internet, or uploading from you computer.
Once you have the files selected for upload click on "Upload Files" to upload the files to RCU.
One the files are uploaded you will now have the ability to move the images around inside the editor box so that the images appear where you want them to.
Let me know if you still have any problems.
Hope this helps.
Ken
#54
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I had hoped to get some serious work done on the fuselage tonight, but had to stop myself. I need 2 degrees right thrust, 2 degrees down and a firewall modified for my engine. I have to think about this for a bit. I like the idea of simply cutting a hole in the firewall for the carb. I found a set of shorter standoffs that will work, but I would like to build the right and down into the firewall and this kit does not really lend itself to that plan. Have to think about it.
#55
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I would not build the thrust into the firewall. You need it to be straight to mount the wings properly. That will give you fits when you go to solder your cabane struts. Look ahead in the instructions, as they have you set the fuselage on it's nose to set the incidence for the top wing when soldering the top wing mounts.
You can shim your standoff's to give proper thrust. You will need it. Some right at least.
On the standoffs, you can use a hardwood dowel bored through to accept a long bolt. Then you can make the standoffs as long as you need. This is the simplest way to go. I had to get complicated with my firewall because I was using a scale cowl. With the stock cowl, I would keep it as simple as possible and bolt directly to the stock firewall.
You can shim your standoff's to give proper thrust. You will need it. Some right at least.
On the standoffs, you can use a hardwood dowel bored through to accept a long bolt. Then you can make the standoffs as long as you need. This is the simplest way to go. I had to get complicated with my firewall because I was using a scale cowl. With the stock cowl, I would keep it as simple as possible and bolt directly to the stock firewall.
I had hoped to get some serious work done on the fuselage tonight, but had to stop myself. I need 2 degrees right thrust, 2 degrees down and a firewall modified for my engine. I have to think about this for a bit. I like the idea of simply cutting a hole in the firewall for the carb. I found a set of shorter standoffs that will work, but I would like to build the right and down into the firewall and this kit does not really lend itself to that plan. Have to think about it.
Also on the incidence, build the plane stock. If you need to change the top wing incidencem you can shim the cabane mounts. Otherwise, as stock, the middle and bottom wing will be fine. Any shimming to the top wing mounts will have to be done before the final mounting of the interplane struts. Remember, this is a busy, dirty airframe. I would not sweat 1 degree here or there. It really will not effect how it flies. This is not a hands off design. You pretty much fly these planes all the time.
Also on the incidence, build the plane stock. If you need to change the top wing incidencem you can shim the cabane mounts. Otherwise, as stock, the middle and bottom wing will be fine. Any shimming to the top wing mounts will have to be done before the final mounting of the interplane struts. Remember, this is a busy, dirty airframe. I would not sweat 1 degree here or there. It really will not effect how it flies. This is not a hands off design. You pretty much fly these planes all the time.
Last edited by vertical grimmace; 08-09-2013 at 04:29 PM.
#56
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So, this is my second tripe, and on my first one, I had a tail wheel. This one I wanted to make more scale, so I made the effort to do a scale tail skid. This new triplane will be getting a tail wheel. I will explain why. I fly from a paved runway, and almost all of the events I fly at have paved runways. So it makes it way easier to taxi.
Here is the main reason though. The triplane has a tough time with ground handling as we all know, It tends to get sideways on landings. This creates a ton of side load forces on the fuselage in the tail. I have now done slight damage to the tail section twice when the skid grabbed the runway. With a wheel, you have the springs to absorb this load. If you are on grass, this would be a non issue. Keep this in mind when deciding on your tail configuration. I have the same skid set up on my Fokker DVII and have had no problems. The triplane is an entirely different beast. I want this airplne so I can fly it. Not an occasional flight, hanger queen. So ease of use is important to me. Hence the change.
Here is the main reason though. The triplane has a tough time with ground handling as we all know, It tends to get sideways on landings. This creates a ton of side load forces on the fuselage in the tail. I have now done slight damage to the tail section twice when the skid grabbed the runway. With a wheel, you have the springs to absorb this load. If you are on grass, this would be a non issue. Keep this in mind when deciding on your tail configuration. I have the same skid set up on my Fokker DVII and have had no problems. The triplane is an entirely different beast. I want this airplne so I can fly it. Not an occasional flight, hanger queen. So ease of use is important to me. Hence the change.
Last edited by vertical grimmace; 08-09-2013 at 05:11 PM.
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Looks like VG is right about needing the firewall square as shown on the plans. I had thought about building the down thrust into the firewall and using shims or washers to get right thrust with standoffs. Won't work. The firewall gets in the way of a landing gear attachment block. And VG is correct about needing the square surface for later construction. Ok, that leaves me with shimming the standoffs or installing a recessed firewall with the thrust angles built into it. I would still have the square surface for wing attachment with the front "false" firewall. Hmmm...
Oh, about the tail wheel / skid. My club field is grass. A nice long wide grass runway. I considered a steerable skid, which I have done before. But, Monday I flew a friends 1/4 scale DVIII. He has a fixed skid and it gave me no real problems. However, that was a D VIII not a triplane. Still thinking about that one also.
Oh, about the tail wheel / skid. My club field is grass. A nice long wide grass runway. I considered a steerable skid, which I have done before. But, Monday I flew a friends 1/4 scale DVIII. He has a fixed skid and it gave me no real problems. However, that was a D VIII not a triplane. Still thinking about that one also.
#58
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You can use a shorter standoff (standoffs) in the area to create your thrust (Shorter bottom standoff for downthrust etc). just put a slight angle in the end to avoid undo stress on the engines mounting lobes.
Otherwise, you can cut a square hole in the firewall, and add a secondary firewall mounted to the back of the primary (inside tank compartment) that accommodates your thrust angles. This is only needed if you are worried about fracturing a mounting lobe on the engine.
Otherwise, you can cut a square hole in the firewall, and add a secondary firewall mounted to the back of the primary (inside tank compartment) that accommodates your thrust angles. This is only needed if you are worried about fracturing a mounting lobe on the engine.
#59
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Otherwise, you can cut a square hole in the firewall, and add a secondary firewall mounted to the back of the primary (inside tank compartment) that accommodates your thrust angles. This is only needed if you are worried about fracturing a mounting lobe on the engine.
That's the route I'm going, for exactly that reason.
#61
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The great thing about this kit, is you can build it stock, as far as the wing incidence goes, and it works just fine. In fact, it is recommended to just build it stock. I was shooting for zero incidence on the top wing, but ended up with 1 degree positive. It flies great.
The area to be watched is the stab incidence. If you build a removable stab, then you can shim it to adjust out the down trim out, but I have +5 in mine, and it has about 2 degrees of down elevator trim for level flight.
The area to be watched is the stab incidence. If you build a removable stab, then you can shim it to adjust out the down trim out, but I have +5 in mine, and it has about 2 degrees of down elevator trim for level flight.
#62
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I've gone as far as I can on the fuselage without starting on the firewall modification. Which is to say, not very far. I'm a slow builder and modifications really slow me down. You know the old carpenter's axiom: measure twice, cut one. I measure about a dozen times and still manage to screw it up. Back to the firewall. Looks like from the plans and photos I can find that the engine gets mounted pretty close to the center of the firewall, adjusted for right and down thrust. By my math, those adjustments move my DLE 30 about .2 inches up and to the left. That is, after adjusting for mounting the engine .75 inches behind the false firewall. Not a big deal. So after locating the engine mount position, I find what I want to cut out of the false firewall. Sure hope that was correct.
#63
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I really find it best to do this after the cowling is mounted. You can cut your square hole in the firewall, then finish out the front end. Mount your cowling, then the Secondary firewall plate can be epoxied in place, with your wedges to set the thrust angles you need. This way, you will know exactly where the prop will exit the cowl and how off center the your engine will be on your mounting plate. .
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I really find it best to do this after the cowling is mounted. You can cut your square hole in the firewall, then finish out the front end. Mount your cowling, then the Secondary firewall plate can be epoxied in place, with your wedges to set the thrust angles you need. This way, you will know exactly where the prop will exit the cowl and how off center the your engine will be on your mounting plate. .
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I've finished with the truss building part of fuselage construction. My firewall modification is going to require a modification to the F-1B former, just a little trimming. This former hold the center and top wings in place, but will end up stronger after my firewall bracing is built. I found a pattern for gussets that I will use on the balsa trusses to strengthen the joints. http://airfieldmodels.com/informatio...gusset_1-4.gif
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The Dr 1 has been off the work bench for a few days. Monday, the engine on my Extra decided it did not want to run, so that required removing and cleaning the carb along with a few other chores. Well, the Extra flies again so work has resumed on the Dr 1. I picked up some 1/4 aircraft plywood and got the firewall and its wedges cut. I think I'll glue this box together before I epoxy it to the back of the false firewall. I'll drill it to accept dowels and use some triangle stock to brace it well.
Last edited by akbowen; 08-14-2013 at 04:07 PM. Reason: Grammer
#67
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On my secondary firewall, that I mounted the engine to, I used aluminum "L" bracket to actually screw this plate to the othe box parts. Of course I glued it as well, with PU glue. I have seen these come loose that were merely glued on. Especially with a shaky gasser like the DLE 30.
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I mounted my recessed firewall. Not too shabby, if I say so myself. I really need to get some better shop tools. Before I start my next build, I'm getting a disc sander. Oh, the firewall.... I'll strengthen the outside with 1/2 basswood triangle stock and the inside with 1/4 basswood triangle stock. That and some "PU" glue. I guess that is epoxy?
#71
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Looks like that firewall is going to work out great.
Love the Steroid tripe as well! Looks like a GTM. I used his cowling. I just love his products.
I got 2 flights in tonight with mine. She is flying really nice now. Flys better than my first one I think. I may have yo buy another kit, just to stash it for a later date!
Love the Steroid tripe as well! Looks like a GTM. I used his cowling. I just love his products.
I got 2 flights in tonight with mine. She is flying really nice now. Flys better than my first one I think. I may have yo buy another kit, just to stash it for a later date!
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Got a bit done this weekend. I cut my gussets for the fuselage trusses and glued them in place. Also, I built much of the top deck. Looking ahead, I've got some stringers for the fuselage and a bit of sheeting to do, then I will start mounting wings. Exciting times!