CARF Joker build thread
05-25-2018, 06:58 AM
#227
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What is the purpose of the indent in the tank and what direction does it go. If I make the fuel line long enough that the clunk reaches the bottom of the tank then it hits the little shelf inside the tank that this indent Makes.
05-28-2018, 05:15 AM
#229
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What do you guy's use for power supply?
My thoughts are keep it simple, 2 x 2s lipo 2200mah in powerbox sensor switch (7.4V) straight in to receiver (futaba R7014SB)
And then what to do with the power lead coming out the gear controller box?
My thoughts are, solder an servo lead (without the signal wire of course) on it en stick it straight in to an empty receiver slot.
My only concern on this is, what's with the amp draw of the box? Could it be that high that it might pull the rest of the system "upside-down"???
Cheers,
Ed
My thoughts are keep it simple, 2 x 2s lipo 2200mah in powerbox sensor switch (7.4V) straight in to receiver (futaba R7014SB)
And then what to do with the power lead coming out the gear controller box?
My thoughts are, solder an servo lead (without the signal wire of course) on it en stick it straight in to an empty receiver slot.
My only concern on this is, what's with the amp draw of the box? Could it be that high that it might pull the rest of the system "upside-down"???
Cheers,
Ed
05-28-2018, 05:59 AM
#230
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Ed,
i am using 2 2200 lipos and a Spektrum Powersafe rx. I am plugging the retract/brake controller into the receiver and was going to use a Y off one of the receiver batteries to power it but the realized it will always be switched on possibly?? What is everyone doing.
I assume everyone is cutting the retract and brake and brake lines and adding connectors to plug in when bolting the wing on rather than plugging veering in the retract controller every time?
i am using 2 2200 lipos and a Spektrum Powersafe rx. I am plugging the retract/brake controller into the receiver and was going to use a Y off one of the receiver batteries to power it but the realized it will always be switched on possibly?? What is everyone doing.
I assume everyone is cutting the retract and brake and brake lines and adding connectors to plug in when bolting the wing on rather than plugging veering in the retract controller every time?
What do you guy's use for power supply?
My thoughts are keep it simple, 2 x 2s lipo 2200mah in powerbox sensor switch (7.4V) straight in to receiver (futaba R7014SB)
And then what to do with the power lead coming out the gear controller box?
My thoughts are, solder an servo lead (without the signal wire of course) on it en stick it straight in to an empty receiver slot.
My only concern on this is, what's with the amp draw of the box? Could it be that high that it might pull the rest of the system "upside-down"???
Cheers,
Ed
My thoughts are keep it simple, 2 x 2s lipo 2200mah in powerbox sensor switch (7.4V) straight in to receiver (futaba R7014SB)
And then what to do with the power lead coming out the gear controller box?
My thoughts are, solder an servo lead (without the signal wire of course) on it en stick it straight in to an empty receiver slot.
My only concern on this is, what's with the amp draw of the box? Could it be that high that it might pull the rest of the system "upside-down"???
Cheers,
Ed
05-28-2018, 06:27 AM
#231
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I'm using one of those MPX 8 pin connectors for the whole lot that goes from the wing to the gear control box.
So yes i cut the wires and so i now got only one connector to put in/ pull out when i tak the wing on/off for the gear section.
For the flap and aileron servo's i did the same thing only with 6 pin MPX connectors 2x.
Cheers,
Ed
So yes i cut the wires and so i now got only one connector to put in/ pull out when i tak the wing on/off for the gear section.
For the flap and aileron servo's i did the same thing only with 6 pin MPX connectors 2x.
Cheers,
Ed
05-28-2018, 06:39 AM
#232
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Yeab i ah I got these so I’ll have two plugs also.
Booma RC Advanced Radio Control Specialists. MultiPlug-4 Connect 4 servos with one plug
Booma RC Advanced Radio Control Specialists. MultiPlug-4 Connect 4 servos with one plug
I'm using one of those MPX 8 pin connectors for the whole lot that goes from the wing to the gear control box.
So yes i cut the wires and so i now got only one connector to put in/ pull out when i tak the wing on/off for the gear section.
For the flap and aileron servo's i did the same thing only with 6 pin MPX connectors 2x.
Cheers,
Ed
So yes i cut the wires and so i now got only one connector to put in/ pull out when i tak the wing on/off for the gear section.
For the flap and aileron servo's i did the same thing only with 6 pin MPX connectors 2x.
Cheers,
Ed
05-28-2018, 09:46 AM
#234
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Huh 
The gear box has 2 normal (3 wire) servo leads witch i suppose go in 2 different chanels on the receiver and the black and red power lead to power the whole thing....
I supose.....
http://www.hobby-china.com/control-b...operation.html
A manual on this would be nice i guess ........
The gear box has 2 normal (3 wire) servo leads witch i suppose go in 2 different chanels on the receiver and the black and red power lead to power the whole thing....
I supose.....
http://www.hobby-china.com/control-b...operation.html
A manual on this would be nice i guess ........
Last edited by Midas D.; 05-28-2018 at 09:48 AM.
05-28-2018, 10:12 AM
#235
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Manual????
There's 3 wire.....1 for power, 1 for gear channel and 1 for the brake channel.......
2 brake output
3 gear output one name nose gear for the door sync
2 doors output....choose V1 or V2 for different doors scenario's
No adjustment required for using it with the JP gear.
There's 3 wire.....1 for power, 1 for gear channel and 1 for the brake channel.......
2 brake output
3 gear output one name nose gear for the door sync
2 doors output....choose V1 or V2 for different doors scenario's
No adjustment required for using it with the JP gear.
05-28-2018, 10:15 AM
#236
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That hat seems pretty obvious then lol. I don’t have it in front of me and seem to remember their only being one output lead for the retract channel. I didn’t realize there was also one for brakes.
Manual????
There's 3 wire.....1 for power, 1 for gear channel and 1 for the brake channel.......
2 brake output
3 gear output one name nose gear for the door sync
2 doors output....choose V1 or V2 for different doors scenario's
No adjustment required for using it with the JP gear.
There's 3 wire.....1 for power, 1 for gear channel and 1 for the brake channel.......
2 brake output
3 gear output one name nose gear for the door sync
2 doors output....choose V1 or V2 for different doors scenario's
No adjustment required for using it with the JP gear.
05-28-2018, 10:51 AM
#238
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It's still pretty obvious since it doesn't do Brakes LOL
http://www.hobby-china.com/control-b...-jp-hobby.html
http://www.hobby-china.com/alloy-ele...lane-1299.html
Last edited by Dansy; 05-28-2018 at 10:54 AM.
05-28-2018, 11:07 AM
#239
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The link you posted above is not the same control unit I have so it’s obvious you don’t really know what you’re talking about and you aren’t helping anyone with your attitude.
In the picture below there is a yellow board for the brakes which I have not seen with my kit so that’s why I was confused And why I said there was only one lead coming off of the controller. I need to look through everything again and see if it was Missing from my kit.
05-28-2018, 11:10 AM
#240
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The link you posted above is not the same control unit I have so it’s obvious you don’t really know what you’re talking about and you aren’t helping anyone with your attitude.
In the picture below there is a yellow board for the brakes which I have not seen with my kit so that’s why I was confused And why I said there was only one lead coming off of the controller. I need to look through everything again and see if it was Missing from my kit.
05-28-2018, 11:15 AM
#241
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Yes you are right....I don’t know. Never used this gear before. That’s exactlywhy I posted the question. Telling people things should be obvious is not helpful.
I'm just trying to be helpful....and Hobby-China does sell JP electric and air gear.....what your missing is the brake controller.....and I have both version all in one and divided....I think what you wrote about me does apply to you but I would never say that to anybody on the net.....I would however in person!
05-28-2018, 08:14 PM
#242
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Morning Guy's,
Thanks for the heads up so far, but unfortunately no answer yet.
Can or Can't i stick the 2 wire power lead straight in to the receiver to drain power from there??
Indeed it is obvious where the servo wire's and gear door wires would go, but my Big Question mark here is the power that has to go to the box??
I would say and think i could take power from an empty servo slot on the receiver, but if the whole gearbox thing draws to many amp when operated it might cause a catastrophic failure on the whole RC and the joker ends up as an Joke in a garbage bag.........
So what to do,
- stick the power lead straight on to an 2 cel LiPo with a switch in between? (but then there is no regulated power supply then, and even worse, cause i don't know if there is an diode in the gear box, i could blow up the whole lot cause you would think as soon as you switch on the power supply to the box the receiver would be fed power from the gear box straight in 2 cell LiPo.....)
- Or stick it in the receiver and drain power from there? (but then how many amp's does the box draw ... cause this could make it loose voltage to servo's when you operate the gears caused by high amp draw....)
The obvious answer would be, set it up for a bench test in both configuration's but then this would tell you only the bare minimum cause there's nothing under load on a bench test, so amp draw from the servo's would be next to nothing.
Cheers,
Ed
Thanks for the heads up so far, but unfortunately no answer yet.
Can or Can't i stick the 2 wire power lead straight in to the receiver to drain power from there??
Indeed it is obvious where the servo wire's and gear door wires would go, but my Big Question mark here is the power that has to go to the box??
I would say and think i could take power from an empty servo slot on the receiver, but if the whole gearbox thing draws to many amp when operated it might cause a catastrophic failure on the whole RC and the joker ends up as an Joke in a garbage bag.........
So what to do,
- stick the power lead straight on to an 2 cel LiPo with a switch in between? (but then there is no regulated power supply then, and even worse, cause i don't know if there is an diode in the gear box, i could blow up the whole lot cause you would think as soon as you switch on the power supply to the box the receiver would be fed power from the gear box straight in 2 cell LiPo.....)
- Or stick it in the receiver and drain power from there? (but then how many amp's does the box draw ... cause this could make it loose voltage to servo's when you operate the gears caused by high amp draw....)
The obvious answer would be, set it up for a bench test in both configuration's but then this would tell you only the bare minimum cause there's nothing under load on a bench test, so amp draw from the servo's would be next to nothing.
Cheers,
Ed
Last edited by Midas D.; 05-28-2018 at 08:30 PM.
05-29-2018, 02:04 AM
#244
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My buddy is running his JP retracts and brakes off the receiver and said that’s what everyone is doing with that model. Considering mine came with a wire broken, I think I may play it safe and run separate power to it with a switch. 
05-29-2018, 02:32 AM
#246
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I run mine via the number 2 Receiver battery, I wouldn’t run directly from the receiver.
Also please note that the this JP and the Xicoy Retract controller that I own are not turned off when the receiver is.....so I keep a jst connection so I can disconnect just the Retract/brake when ever needed
Also please note that the this JP and the Xicoy Retract controller that I own are not turned off when the receiver is.....so I keep a jst connection so I can disconnect just the Retract/brake when ever needed
05-29-2018, 03:29 AM
#247
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But only 1 question left is, will there be power/current feedback through the servo leads in to the receiver?
Or better said, if i would leave power from the receiver battery's switched off, and only switch the power supply to the JP gear box on, would it then feed the receiver the receiver part of the system on or is tis part of the gear box to the receiver protected (diode)?
Thanks for the heads up guy's, Appreciated!!
Cheers,
Ed
Just trying to prevent a Cluster F.... witch might cause a loss of the bird
06-04-2018, 06:01 AM
#250
Resting with his big CARF uncles after 7 uneventfull flights!!!
The Red Joker flew for the first time yesterday, this is my second Joker, the first one was sold after only a few flights.
what a fun plane to fly, it does it all, fast, slow, positive and negative snaps , knive edges great small loops, BIG loops, slow rolls, just anything you want and all ways rock solid, you can fly it in a small envelope at full trust and it’s really a joy...this time I got the PNP wich you can have ready in a day and the power of the KT 85 is just perfect for the plane
For the quality and cost IT’s a MUST in everyones hangar!!!