CARF Joker build thread
#277
My Feedback: (13)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Williamstown,
NJ
Posts: 905
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So a couple things prevented the maiden.
1. So I ran a lead off of one of the receiver batteries and used that to power the retract/brake unit. However, they still work without the lead plugged I. So they are getting power off the receiver which i was trying to avoid. Any ideas?
2. I am running a dual aileron, dual flap, and dual elevator program on the DX18 so the nosegear has to be in channel 11 on the rx but there is no way to mix it to the rudder because you can only mix the first 10 channels. ???
Thanks!
1. So I ran a lead off of one of the receiver batteries and used that to power the retract/brake unit. However, they still work without the lead plugged I. So they are getting power off the receiver which i was trying to avoid. Any ideas?
2. I am running a dual aileron, dual flap, and dual elevator program on the DX18 so the nosegear has to be in channel 11 on the rx but there is no way to mix it to the rudder because you can only mix the first 10 channels. ???
Thanks!
#278
My Feedback: (53)
So a couple things prevented the maiden.
1. So I ran a lead off of one of the receiver batteries and used that to power the retract/brake unit. However, they still work without the lead plugged I. So they are getting power off the receiver which i was trying to avoid. Any ideas?
2. I am running a dual aileron, dual flap, and dual elevator program on the DX18 so the nosegear has to be in channel 11 on the rx but there is no way to mix it to the rudder because you can only mix the first 10 channels. ???
Thanks!
1. So I ran a lead off of one of the receiver batteries and used that to power the retract/brake unit. However, they still work without the lead plugged I. So they are getting power off the receiver which i was trying to avoid. Any ideas?
2. I am running a dual aileron, dual flap, and dual elevator program on the DX18 so the nosegear has to be in channel 11 on the rx but there is no way to mix it to the rudder because you can only mix the first 10 channels. ???
Thanks!
#279
My Feedback: (13)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Williamstown,
NJ
Posts: 905
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah it’s the all in one unit. I have not tried to unplug from the jstt yet. I will try that which sucks because I have to remove the equipment tray. I have the pigtail off the main battery plugging into a XT30 connector on the board with a switch that turns it on and off. With the switch on or off and the XT30 lead disconnnecyed b retracts and brakes still work. The more I think about it though it just doesn’t make sense. The pigtail off of the receiver battery goes through a switch directly into the JST connector
1- So you have the integrated Retract / Brakes all in one JP controller the ER-150? and when you unplug the JST wire the retract still work? Thats a new one to me, I have 2 of those in jets and when I disconnect the JST cable the retract doesn't move and no brakes either....and I know that works because more then once while setting up the airplane I tried the retract/brakes and it wasn't working...until I plug the cable in...
Last edited by TUMBLER; 06-07-2018 at 01:46 PM.
#281
My Feedback: (13)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Williamstown,
NJ
Posts: 905
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yep that was it! I removed the red wire from the servo connector and now it only works when the switch is on. Like removing the red wire from A speed controller on an electric to disable the internal BEC.
#282
My Feedback: (53)
I think that could be the cause.....looking at this board it look like the same board as the ER-120 the 2 part version which the gear is power by the receiver, that I open because of problems.......I don’t have access to one of mine all 3 are installed I could open one up on Monday....flying tomorrow and sat/sun
great stuff learned something new...
great stuff learned something new...
#283
My Feedback: (13)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Williamstown,
NJ
Posts: 905
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Come on you gotta admit that looked like a broken wire inside the case?
I think that could be the cause.....looking at this board it look like the same board as the ER-120 the 2 part version which the gear is power by the receiver, that I open because of problems.......I don’t have access to one of mine all 3 are installed I could open one up on Monday....flying tomorrow and sat/sun
great stuff learned something new...
great stuff learned something new...
#286
Hey Tumbler, yes I'm using 8mm of crow, the only thing that I adjusted against the istructions is the aileron trow as it was a little too much..
#287
My Feedback: (13)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Williamstown,
NJ
Posts: 905
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
4 flights today. Some video below.
Fly’s like it’s on rails. Definitely the right speed for my field because any faster and I just have to fly laps and can’t really do aerobatics. Feels just like an Ultra Flash in a smaller package I can fly in tighter spaces. On the last flight I noticed the trailing link is not fully extending. Not sure if it needs some lubrication or what. Seems to get stuck and need a nudge to drop down.
Fly’s like it’s on rails. Definitely the right speed for my field because any faster and I just have to fly laps and can’t really do aerobatics. Feels just like an Ultra Flash in a smaller package I can fly in tighter spaces. On the last flight I noticed the trailing link is not fully extending. Not sure if it needs some lubrication or what. Seems to get stuck and need a nudge to drop down.
#288
My Feedback: (13)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Williamstown,
NJ
Posts: 905
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Good to know! I cut that amount in half because visually it looked like too much but it must need it for elevator compensation because when I drop the flaps, the nose pointed up 45°. Needed a ton of down elevator to compensate
#289
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: holland, NETHERLANDS
Posts: 474
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Tumbler,
Thanks for sharing that video, nice
Looks like the 85 is pushing it around nice enough
So what was your flight times aprox. and how much left in the tank?
Did u use take off flaps?
Cheers,
Ed
Thanks for sharing that video, nice
Looks like the 85 is pushing it around nice enough
So what was your flight times aprox. and how much left in the tank?
Did u use take off flaps?
Cheers,
Ed
#291
My Feedback: (13)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Williamstown,
NJ
Posts: 905
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Ed,
i used the 20mm take off flap yes. I set the timer to 5 mins and then dropped the landing gear so total flights were 6 1/2. Looked like there was about 1/2” at the front of the tank, which might actually be a little more since the plane sits with a slight nose high attitude. Maybe I could stretch another 30 seconds out of her.
i used the 20mm take off flap yes. I set the timer to 5 mins and then dropped the landing gear so total flights were 6 1/2. Looked like there was about 1/2” at the front of the tank, which might actually be a little more since the plane sits with a slight nose high attitude. Maybe I could stretch another 30 seconds out of her.
#294
My Feedback: (13)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Williamstown,
NJ
Posts: 905
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Definitely going to add that nosegear door to help slow down a bit more on landing. Certainly didn’t feel draggy to me like I had expected based on earlier posts about the open ducting.
#295
#297
My Feedback: (13)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Williamstown,
NJ
Posts: 905
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I feel your pain. I have one that just turned 2 last week and another 6 months old. After we put them to bed is the only time I have to build so even ARFs seem to take a while these days
#298
My Feedback: (13)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Williamstown,
NJ
Posts: 905
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi guys,
i am using 1 6 pin multiplex connector for the 4 wing servos and know how to wire that no problem but any ideas for the retracts and brakes? Would I hang the positives from both retracts and put on 1 pin and do the same for the negatives and then for the brakes do the same? Like the first picture I am attaching? Or separate the negatives like the second pic?
i am using 1 6 pin multiplex connector for the 4 wing servos and know how to wire that no problem but any ideas for the retracts and brakes? Would I hang the positives from both retracts and put on 1 pin and do the same for the negatives and then for the brakes do the same? Like the first picture I am attaching? Or separate the negatives like the second pic?
#299
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: holland, NETHERLANDS
Posts: 474
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Moeahhhhh.....
Hmmm...
Wel what i'm doing is, i took an 8 pin MPX and just go for 1 pin per wire...
Kinda just to keep it clean i suppose, but hey, this is what i'm doing, not that that say's a lot........
Slowly cracking on with the build
Hmmm...
Wel what i'm doing is, i took an 8 pin MPX and just go for 1 pin per wire...
Kinda just to keep it clean i suppose, but hey, this is what i'm doing, not that that say's a lot........
Slowly cracking on with the build
#300
My Feedback: (53)
Doesn’t each motor might be different speed, so the gear might not be fully out or in when the output port stop?
I normally used 1 AMP 10 pins connector per side (Ail/Flap Gear/brks) like the one Ultimate jet sell, they are on digi-key website.....
Last edited by Dansy; 06-11-2018 at 09:54 AM.