CARF Joker build thread
#706
I currently fly a Joker with the VT80BL and I can tell you the Joker flies great. No you wont break the sound barrier but it will get you your blood flowing. I have seen speeds in the 170s (mph) level flight. I am sure you could get into the 180's if you dove into it but I am not a speed demon either especially since I am new to turbines and just obtained my waiver so I still fly conservatively. The VT80BL has been flawless on Diesel with 5% Kingtech oil. I fly in Houston where it is hot and muggy and the engine has not missed a beat thus far. The Joker has been a great first turbine airframe and the Jets Munt engine has complimented the airframe well. A match made in Heaven.
I finally got the BT90BLR, same 80 upgraded so it is 90 power, I want a light set up so the 80 size will do.
#708
My Feedback: (1)
better to find servo who fit ...I replace the flap servo ( one burnt) to Hitec forgot the # can check later .. I had to do a bit of Dremel work but not that much
My Jet Munt 80 come back yesterday from ignition problem but its snowing tomorrow ...Will have to wait to have more fun with my Joker !
My Jet Munt 80 come back yesterday from ignition problem but its snowing tomorrow ...Will have to wait to have more fun with my Joker !
#709
My Feedback: (53)
better to find servo who fit ...I replace the flap servo ( one burnt) to Hitec forgot the # can check later .. I had to do a bit of Dremel work but not that much
My Jet Munt 80 come back yesterday from ignition problem but its snowing tomorrow ...Will have to wait to have more fun with my Joker !
My Jet Munt 80 come back yesterday from ignition problem but its snowing tomorrow ...Will have to wait to have more fun with my Joker !
#712
Hi,
After months abroad, i finally got the time to finish my JOKER.
Untill now, i still have 3 things to do:
1. Fix the batteries under the radome.
2. Find a solution to avoid the servo wire extentions, comming from the Rx to the stabilizer from touching the thrust tube.
This at the connector location at the stabilizer.
3. Adjusting the CG. (180mm???)
Is it possible to show how you managed the 2th item?
This item is banging my head against the wall.
kind Regards,
Eric
After months abroad, i finally got the time to finish my JOKER.
Untill now, i still have 3 things to do:
1. Fix the batteries under the radome.
2. Find a solution to avoid the servo wire extentions, comming from the Rx to the stabilizer from touching the thrust tube.
This at the connector location at the stabilizer.
3. Adjusting the CG. (180mm???)
Is it possible to show how you managed the 2th item?
This item is banging my head against the wall.
kind Regards,
Eric
#713
Thread Starter
I put a long pad of Velcro hook on the fuselage sides above the tail seat. I then get a short length of Velcro strapping and make a tight loop around the wire so it slides. After plugging in, you attach the loop to the fuselage side and this keeps it away from the tube.
#714
Has anyone looked at putting a slightly bigger fuel tank in the Joker? Im looking at buying another Joker but I only have a KT 120 to put in it, (can’t afford an Ultra flash) but don’t want to only fly for 4 or maybe 5 mins, i’m sure this has as good a fuel economy than my Wren 100 I had in previously but I’d like to get at least a 6 min flight. Anyone know of a bigger tank that might fit? I wonder if CM Tanks could make a slightly longer tank.
#715
Thread Starter
Balance is a compromise, but I ordered a second tank, cut both off-set long and joined, I fly 8 mins with a P-100Rx and good throttle use
DW
DW
#716
That’s a good idea, not sure I have the skills to cut and join a fuel tank tho, but 7-8 mins would be spot on. I’v got the timer set at 7:30 on my Xcalibur with the 120 fitted and with the 3 (ish) litre tank always got fuel to spare. and I’m sure the Joker will need less throttle for cruising around. But I’d rather have more than less fuel. Would you be willing to sell a M&R modified tank? :-) :-)
#717
Thread Starter
The round tank means you can use every drop, the flat bottom Xcalibur tank limits how far you can really drain it. I can do it, but it’s not a cheap solution.
#721
My Feedback: (1)
where did you get the 8 pin for the gear?
Some pics of my progress so far:
Wing servos mounted, polarized multi-connectors wired (8 pin for gear and brakes, 12 for ailerons/flaps):
Attachment 2244839 Attachment 2244840
Servos were a bit too tall so elevator access pockets and covers had to be modified to fit
Attachment 2244841
and rudder servo had to be shimmed to allow servo horn to line up with the slot in the vertical stab:
Attachment 2244842 Attachment 2244843
Does anyone know what these plywood pieces are for, I'm assuming the ones on the left are to mount the header tank/UAT but have no idea what the ones on the right are for:
Attachment 2244844
Also how is everyone attaching (or planning to attach) the fairing for the rudder and aileron linkages? I'm thinking they would need to be able to be removed later without damaging the finish if a servo needs to be replaced or a linkage adjusted. I was thinking maybe pacer 560 canopy glue but wasn't' sure if that would hold well enough,
Wing servos mounted, polarized multi-connectors wired (8 pin for gear and brakes, 12 for ailerons/flaps):
Attachment 2244839 Attachment 2244840
Servos were a bit too tall so elevator access pockets and covers had to be modified to fit
Attachment 2244841
and rudder servo had to be shimmed to allow servo horn to line up with the slot in the vertical stab:
Attachment 2244842 Attachment 2244843
Does anyone know what these plywood pieces are for, I'm assuming the ones on the left are to mount the header tank/UAT but have no idea what the ones on the right are for:
Attachment 2244844
Also how is everyone attaching (or planning to attach) the fairing for the rudder and aileron linkages? I'm thinking they would need to be able to be removed later without damaging the finish if a servo needs to be replaced or a linkage adjusted. I was thinking maybe pacer 560 canopy glue but wasn't' sure if that would hold well enough,
#723
Hi all,
ok, got my Joker finally in a ready state to fly.
Just need to adjust the flight control throws for it’s maiden flight.
What are the hi and low throws you are using? I don’t want to fly an over nervous plane on this first flight...
Regards,
Eric
ok, got my Joker finally in a ready state to fly.
Just need to adjust the flight control throws for it’s maiden flight.
What are the hi and low throws you are using? I don’t want to fly an over nervous plane on this first flight...
Regards,
Eric
#725
Thread Starter
OK
Ailerons 10mm up and 11mm down measured tip expo 25% no gyro 18%. With gyro
Elevators 11mm up and down measured at Tip. Expo 40% no gyro 25% with gyro
Rudder 46mm each way measured at base 10% expo both
Flaps 25mm take off with 2mm down elev. 83mm landing with 5mm down elev at tip.
Balance on mine is middle of the main legs when the tank is at landing amount-about 20mm in main tank with header full gear down.
Dave
These are figures I set so others could fly my model, it’s soft for me, but seems to suit most people. I would start here and adjust to your taste after flying.
Ailerons 10mm up and 11mm down measured tip expo 25% no gyro 18%. With gyro
Elevators 11mm up and down measured at Tip. Expo 40% no gyro 25% with gyro
Rudder 46mm each way measured at base 10% expo both
Flaps 25mm take off with 2mm down elev. 83mm landing with 5mm down elev at tip.
Balance on mine is middle of the main legs when the tank is at landing amount-about 20mm in main tank with header full gear down.
Dave
These are figures I set so others could fly my model, it’s soft for me, but seems to suit most people. I would start here and adjust to your taste after flying.