ram3500-RCU

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Sign board is a foam core sandwiched between a construction paper-like material. Very stiff and easy to cut and work with. About 1/4" thick, it can be surface glued with CA, or other glues. It is lighter than light-ply, and less expensive. I got the last sheet at Walgreens, I think.

Mustangman40

My Feedback: (1)

The kids use it for school projects, but I never thought about using it for planes.. Very good idea Gary, it has the little light bulb turned on over my head now....
Have you usedthat set upbefore on other air tanks? It looks light and strong........

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

You're welcome.

No, this is my first time using it this way. I have used it for instrument panels and other cockpit parts, wing ribs and other formers, to mention a few. I'm always looking for new ways to use the stuff.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Well, #1 will be ready for the first engine start and taxi trials this coming Saturday. Brian has the wings almost done. The gear is ready, and the wings hydraulics are close. I need to finish the hatches, install batteries, install the switches and air fittings and valves.

We won't be ready to fly. Possibly the following weekend for the first flight.

More pictures soon.

Whistling Death

Hey Ram, I thought you were talking about foam core poster board but I just wanted to be sure.
This is why I love the RCU forums, I have a bunch of this type of poster board material laying around but for some reason it never occurred for me to us it in any of my airplane projects.
Now I know

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

That is the stuff. I have been using it for several years without issue. On the upcoming 12' P-47 build, I intend to use it for wing ribs in the outboard sections to shave some weight. The wing kit comes with plywood ones.

Here are some more pictures. The wing on #1 is just about ready. We need to get some different fittings for the hydraulic system. Bria tried to test it with standard Ts and blew one out.
We are ordering the correct size 'Fetso' fittings.

The spaghetti bowl will be organized.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Well, we were able to get her ready for her first appearance, The Alliance Balsa Bees Bog Bird fly-in. Not quite ready for flight, we were ready for the first engine start. It went very well. I was able to run the engine three time during the day, and taxi up and down the flight line. It was the first time seeing and hearing the Moki 250 for all but a couple in the crowd. She was a big hit. What an impressive plane.

aghost

My Feedback: (13)

Looking good!!

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

We have made the decision to send the gear for #2 (the kit plane) to Mitch at Down & Locked for the electric conversion. I'll assemble the tail gear in it's mount and send the whole thing, so he can set the travel. I would like to do all electric doors, but Brian wants to keep the main gear doors air. We will do a closed system in the wing for this. The tail doors will be linked to the gear, eliminating the need for air cylinders, air fittings, and such in the fuselage.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Hatches.

ram3500-RCU

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Balancing. Using Steel Powder of course.

scale only 4 me

My Feedback: (158)

I dig that fancy CG machine,,, I need to cg my 33% extra,, I wonder where I could get one

Can't wait to the F4u in person on the 20th,, hope it good to go by then

pacoflyer

My Feedback: (23)

Gary,
Fabulous job with this very imformative thread.
A little off topic but I'm interested in the fuel pump that you are using on the Moki. Do you think it could be used as a smoke pump as I'm sick of paying $100 for the currently available pumps and only have them last one season ?

Thanks and good flying,
paul

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Thanks pal. We have found the home made balance very useful for these giants. We just keep pouring Steel Powder in the bag until it balances. We put some epoxy in it as well. About 4 lbs to balance her. Not bad. May need a little more after she is painted.

We tested the gear and it held air for a couple hours till we broke her down, and cycled perfectly. If only it will stay that way. One of the worst things about these giant war birds is maintaining the gear.

We are using this sequencer. Very easy to program and fully capable of all necessary options and adjustments. I also like the fact that it has an arming button that until pushed, will not let the gear do anything when you power it up. A red light, mounted next to the button lets you know it is armed and ready to operate.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

A look inside.

docgboy

I have around 100 flights on my corsair and one thing I would like to share about the gear is make sure it is locked when in the down position. I test it very sinply by using the palm of my hand and smack the front of the tire sharply. If the elbow buckles you need to adjust the gear to move it forward until you can strike without buckling. If it gives with this technique it will fold on anything short of a greased landing.
I have to compromise and not have the gear fully retracted into the bays to accomplish this but it is hardly noticable during flight and is a better alternative than fixing ripped off doors. Ask me how I know.

Scott

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Thank you for the tip Scott. I noticed that it takes air to hold the gear in the locked position, unlike most gear that 'cam over' into down and locked. We will use your test method for sure.

We also have drilled a small hole through each mechanism through which we install pins with 'remove before flying' flags attached. This prevents the gear from collapsing in the event the plane sits for a long time and the air bleeds off. Saw Graeme do this and thought it was a good idea. The gear for airframe #2 is in the process of being converted to electric operation, so all this will be no issue with that plane.

scale only 4 me

My Feedback: (158)

That's not bad at all,

How you finding that sequencer to program? Instruction are a little head scratchy if you ask me,
Curious because I have a 5th scale Mustang on the winter project list,,

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Well, let me put it this way, I usually let Brian do all the programing because he deals with this stuff all the time at work ( he also did all the research on sequencers and picked this one for the array of fetchers it has), but I tackled this one because the fuselage was in my shop already.

It only took me about ten minutes to figure out how it all worked. I had to read the instructions a couple times, and then I started over twice as well (it is very easy to clear your work and start over with a clean slate), but the third time through, it was all working perfectly.

You actually set the timing on the doors and gear in real time. With the gear up and doors shut, you flip your gear switch, the doors open, and when you want the gear to start down, you simply push the button. What you see is what you get. Same is true of retraction. Flip the switch, gear goes up, and when you are ready for doors to close, you push the button. The system remembers the delays permanently or until you change them. To change "modes" (P-51, P-47 for instance) you simply turn the dial to the appropriate one (well marked and noted in the instructions.

Really very easy.

I also set it up with it's own battery lead and switch. The CPU and servo drive are separate in the system. This make it possible for them to have the 'arming' switch and light. Very cool. Nothing happens when you power up the system, till you press the switch, which I have mounted in the hatch with the fill valve and status light.

Here you see the switch for the gear system, the arming switch, the little red status light, and the fill valve.

Bill Vargas

My Feedback: (5)

What servos are you using?

thanks,

BV

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

On this one they are as follows:

Elevators = (1) 8711
Rudder = (1) 8711
Tail wheel = (1) 8711
Flaps = (4) 8711 + (1) Smart Fly Equalizer 3D (made to handle up to 4 servos, with these devices the travel, center, and direction of travel can be adjusted for each servo, all being ganged together, using only one channel on your radio and no mixing)
Ailerons = (2) 8711 + (1) Smart Fly Equalizer II (made to handle up to 2 servos)
Throttle = (1) DS821
Wing = (1) DS821
Air valves for the gear = (2) Savox mini servos

On the second airframe we will probably use (4) 8411s on the flaps instead of 8711s, and an 8611 on the tail wheel. In fact, we plan to remove those (5) 8711s from #1, and use them on the primary controls on #2, replacing them with the above.

Mustangman40

My Feedback: (1)

Looking good buddy, glad to see it moving along... Ibeen busy at work and coaching football, add a wife and daughter into the mix and it has me coming down with that Chinese flu, "Dragon Azz".........Talk to you soon...........

Jimbo

vfrank59

I have a question on your balancing. While in the upright position, as you have, is the tail Level when you get the CG set at the balance point?

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

The CG is really a balance of the mass, and not aerodynamic. Hope I said that correctly. Anyway, the plane is balanced at the spot called out by the manufacturer or designer, irregardless of the incidence of the wing or tail. I would have to use my incidence meter to determine what you ask. I have not done that. I usually don't with this type airframe, unless I detect a problem, or it has bad characteristics in the air.

When building a model from plans, I check very carefully both the tail and wing incidence relative to the thrust line, as called for on the plans.

Guess I don't have a yes or no answer for you. Sorry.

Looks like the weather man may not cooperate for the maiden this Sunday. We are still hoping for the best.

scale only 4 me

My Feedback: (158)

The setting the door timing seamed easy,

The "Arming" button is where I was lost, each time you power up the model you have to turn that on too obviosly, but you also have to "arm" it too to make jure the TX gear switch is in the correct psotion. that way the gear doesn't open or close unexpectedly and do damage,, got that.

The question I had was. will it not "Arm" until you do have the correct switch position? or can you still Arm it with the switch wrong? After reading it 4/5 times I think I got my answer, No, all the doors will just stay open until the system is armed with the switch in the "down" position..

Pretty cool toy for the price of a decent servo.

Last question,, do the servos plug into seperate leads or is there a plug array like a RX has?,, can't tell from the pics on thier site

TIA

I might have to go for a Sunday Drive drive,, Let us know