Welcome to Club SAITO !
#8605
My Feedback: (79)
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
The reason I ask, is that I plan on running an original stack from a YS 1.20 If I can find one. I ordered the pipe for the Saito 1.00 allready (Saito 3.25 radial/Saito 1.82T). I want to run just the stack on Saito 1.00 and 1.25. The 1.25 is going in my WM Midget Mustang, and the 1.00 is going in my Trusty old Shoestring this winter. The 1.25 header is harder to find since Saito does not use 13MM for any of there other engines.
#8606
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Location: Waretown, NJ NJ
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I have a question regarding the Saito carburetor placement. I have been in the hobby for a while but only flew 2 stroke engines. I am new to four stroke engines and purchased a Saito FA-65. I bought it from an individual but it was new in the box. Mounted it in a Tiger 60 and the engine runs well and now I am sold on 4 strokes and Saito. This influenced me to buy an FA-72 and 91S.
My question deals with the placement of the needle valve adjustment screw. All these engines come with the carburetor attached so that the needle adjustment is on the right side of the engine (looking from the back side) just below the muffler and the servo linkage is on the left side of the motor. I didn't like the fact that to adjust the needle you had to approach it from the mufler side. So on my FA-65. I disconnected the carburetor and reversed it as opposed to the way it came from Saito. Now the need valve screw and servo linkage is situated like a 2 stroke engine. I find this better and safer to adjust the carburetor. Do you experienced Saito guys do the same thing as I? Any idea why the engine comes from Saito with this configuration? Have I done anything wrong by doing this? I would appreciate any help you give me as I plan to do this with my other Saito engines.
Thanks,
My question deals with the placement of the needle valve adjustment screw. All these engines come with the carburetor attached so that the needle adjustment is on the right side of the engine (looking from the back side) just below the muffler and the servo linkage is on the left side of the motor. I didn't like the fact that to adjust the needle you had to approach it from the mufler side. So on my FA-65. I disconnected the carburetor and reversed it as opposed to the way it came from Saito. Now the need valve screw and servo linkage is situated like a 2 stroke engine. I find this better and safer to adjust the carburetor. Do you experienced Saito guys do the same thing as I? Any idea why the engine comes from Saito with this configuration? Have I done anything wrong by doing this? I would appreciate any help you give me as I plan to do this with my other Saito engines.
Thanks,
#8607
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Capt Lou, I don't call myself particularly experienced, but my understanding is the carbs are made to be flipped. I have run them both ways, depending on the setup. In fact for my latest, a Saito 150 in my Ultimate, I flipped the carb over as I had so little room to run the control linkages, and it also put my HS needle out the top of the cowl. I say, "Builder's Choice."
#8608
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I have a Saito .82 I have been flying for about 2 months on a weak performing (X50 Funtana), anyways I have managed to Mess the threads up on the muffler pipe extension. I put thread lock on but the motor still managed to vibrate it loose, other than that I am very happy with this motor. MY QUESTION: I see the Saito has a 12x1 mm thread, is there any suggestions for a quick fix and maybe even getting a little longer extension? I was thinking of looking around at the local hardware stores to see if I could get something to hook the muffler back.. Any suggestions would be appreciated..
#8609
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Plumbers teflon tape works much better than liquid thread lockers for these exhausts pipes and mufflers. I use this stuff for mounting spinners, motor mounts to the firewall, anyplace I am very concerned about vibration.
#8610
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: iflyfisher
Capt Lou, I don't call myself particularly experienced, but my understanding is the carbs are made to be flipped. I have run them both ways, depending on the setup. In fact for my latest, a Saito 150 in my Ultimate, I flipped the carb over as I had so little room to run the control linkages, and it also put my HS needle out the top of the cowl. I say, "Builder's Choice."
Capt Lou, I don't call myself particularly experienced, but my understanding is the carbs are made to be flipped. I have run them both ways, depending on the setup. In fact for my latest, a Saito 150 in my Ultimate, I flipped the carb over as I had so little room to run the control linkages, and it also put my HS needle out the top of the cowl. I say, "Builder's Choice."
Thanks for the response. I like the Saito engine and am confident enough to do what I did with the carb. I was really seeking other flyers' experiences and techniques.
Thanks
#8611
My Feedback: (3)
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Welcome to the club, Capt Lou! You are off to a nice start with your Saitos. You are member #552 now.
The teflon tape is one of the best solutions. You can double or triple layer it, if needed. Normally, you oil the threads of the mufflers and headers and tighten them. Retighten when the engine is warm a couple of times. Mine have always stayed put that way.
The teflon tape is one of the best solutions. You can double or triple layer it, if needed. Normally, you oil the threads of the mufflers and headers and tighten them. Retighten when the engine is warm a couple of times. Mine have always stayed put that way.
#8613
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I have been operation two Saito engines they have been very reliable a 100FA and a 62FA great engines plenty of power easy to adjust and maintain. I have the 100 in a Hangar 9 Spitfire and a 62 in my Easysport 40.
#8615
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Wow no love. I have a Saito .82 and a Saito FA182 Twin .. Caint believe I wasnt "inducted" into the Saito Club. I guess you have to be someone or Know the right person... I think I am going to have to trade up for something better with Cooler Peeps..
Off to OS club......
"where the power is" ... nah I will still keep my Saitos but movin on..
Thanks for the Tip on the Teflon Tape.. Unfortunately I think I was too late, ends up the brass extenstion is Stripped out.. Looking to replace it and Teflon the next...
Off to OS club......
"where the power is" ... nah I will still keep my Saitos but movin on..
Thanks for the Tip on the Teflon Tape.. Unfortunately I think I was too late, ends up the brass extenstion is Stripped out.. Looking to replace it and Teflon the next...
#8617
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
w8ye,
Thanks. I may be posting if I get into trouble. BTW, and FWIW, the guy who sold me the engine posted an updated rebuttal and claimed to know nothing about the valve mis-timing or any of the other engine problems. He claimed it was I who "screwed it up".
Caveat Emptor I'll be more careful next time :-)
Marl
Thanks. I may be posting if I get into trouble. BTW, and FWIW, the guy who sold me the engine posted an updated rebuttal and claimed to know nothing about the valve mis-timing or any of the other engine problems. He claimed it was I who "screwed it up".
Caveat Emptor I'll be more careful next time :-)
Marl
#8618
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
i bet the fg 36 makes a bunch of torque to swing a big prop
http://shop.singahobby.com/?q=node/12900
Recommended propeller (and static thrust):
APC 17x10 - 5.7kg
APC 17x13 - 5.4kg
APC 19x8 - 6.5kg
APC 19x10 - 7kg
APC 20x8 - 7.5kg
APC 18x8 - 6.8kg
APC 19x8 - 7kg
http://shop.singahobby.com/?q=node/12900
Recommended propeller (and static thrust):
APC 17x10 - 5.7kg
APC 17x13 - 5.4kg
APC 19x8 - 6.5kg
APC 19x10 - 7kg
APC 20x8 - 7.5kg
APC 18x8 - 6.8kg
APC 19x8 - 7kg
#8620
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: largo,
FL
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I just got a Saito 180 for my E-Flight Yak 54 (74") but having problems getting it to start without a choke, I have a remote filler and that adds to the problem, with the cowl off I can choke it with my finger and it starts right up, but had the same problem with my Saito 72 in a Funtana 50X, had to drill a hole in the cowl for a dowel to stick in the carb to choke it. I
know you don't neeed a stinking choke, but let me tell you, it sure would help. Anybody made one that works ?
know you don't neeed a stinking choke, but let me tell you, it sure would help. Anybody made one that works ?
#8623
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Hi Club Saito,
I have the 90t running ok, I think. I have a high speed of 8800-9000rpm and a sustainable idle of 3500-3800rpm without added glow heat. I have under three tanks through the engine. Running Coolpower 15% 4-stroke fuel and a 13-6 Xoar wood prop. Stock glow plugs.
The engine idles smooth and high speed is smooth but transition is boggy going up through half throttle then it clears up and runs smooth. I can't get idle lower than about 3500 without one cylinder losing fire.
The idle ports have me somewhat puzzled. Left port is on front and right is on back, if looking from rear of engine. You would think that Saito would have made both ports on the same side of the carb. I think that would have made tuning a bit easier. Seems like each cylinder is wanting a different setting. Will that also affect the high speed settings?
I know the engine will loosen up over time so the fast idle really doesn't bother me much. I think I am ready for flights, but I want to get a better transition first.
See ya,
Rod
I have the 90t running ok, I think. I have a high speed of 8800-9000rpm and a sustainable idle of 3500-3800rpm without added glow heat. I have under three tanks through the engine. Running Coolpower 15% 4-stroke fuel and a 13-6 Xoar wood prop. Stock glow plugs.
The engine idles smooth and high speed is smooth but transition is boggy going up through half throttle then it clears up and runs smooth. I can't get idle lower than about 3500 without one cylinder losing fire.
The idle ports have me somewhat puzzled. Left port is on front and right is on back, if looking from rear of engine. You would think that Saito would have made both ports on the same side of the carb. I think that would have made tuning a bit easier. Seems like each cylinder is wanting a different setting. Will that also affect the high speed settings?
I know the engine will loosen up over time so the fast idle really doesn't bother me much. I think I am ready for flights, but I want to get a better transition first.
See ya,
Rod
#8624
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
blw,
Your point is well taken. I'm not sure what I can do from here. I could post a formal complaint on RCU and try to get him to make it right, but then the transaction is in limbo waiting for, who knows how long, for a resolution. My time is valuable and I'm thinking I can learn from this encounter and learn how to change bearings on a Saito engine (So far I only know how to replace cylinder heads, push rods/guide tubes, adjust tappet clearance and set valve timing).
I suppose I could revise my feedback comments a bit to address his "name calling". But it seems like it's his word against mine. I know for a fact the valve timing was seriously wrong but he tells everyone in the rebuttal it ran great. And I also know I didn't mess it up. But isn't it just a matter of which feedback (original or rebuttal) that is seen as being credible? And so when potential buyers "read between the lines", they can figure out who is telling the truth?
Marl
Your point is well taken. I'm not sure what I can do from here. I could post a formal complaint on RCU and try to get him to make it right, but then the transaction is in limbo waiting for, who knows how long, for a resolution. My time is valuable and I'm thinking I can learn from this encounter and learn how to change bearings on a Saito engine (So far I only know how to replace cylinder heads, push rods/guide tubes, adjust tappet clearance and set valve timing).
I suppose I could revise my feedback comments a bit to address his "name calling". But it seems like it's his word against mine. I know for a fact the valve timing was seriously wrong but he tells everyone in the rebuttal it ran great. And I also know I didn't mess it up. But isn't it just a matter of which feedback (original or rebuttal) that is seen as being credible? And so when potential buyers "read between the lines", they can figure out who is telling the truth?
Marl
#8625
My Feedback: (16)
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
N1EDM,
I played around with the Saito 72 today. The muffler pressure nipple had come out of the muffler and the previous owner had installed a new larger nipple prior to the rear baffle. I happened to have a new muffler. The engine ran a little better but still too rich with the idle screw all the way in.
Then I looked at the idle speed adjustment screw for a flat side and sure enough it had a flat side on the locating pin. I turn the screw to make the flat side not make any difference. Engine better but still rich.
I would venture to say that the engine is now lean enough in lower midrange to be usable as it is.
I removed the carb and the cat eye on the spray bar is exactly in line towards the engine. There was no apparent wear on the spray bar or inside the idle needle. There was also no apparent wear on the groove of the barrel. The spring was present.
I did notice the O-rings that seal the intake tube top and bottom were marginal but they should make me have the opposite problem and make the engine run lean.
I tried a different Top Flite wood 13-6 instead of the normal APC 13-6 and that seemed to make no difference.
Before I had traded for the engine, it had spent most of it's life on Pizzaz 3D planes and Heli 30 fuel. Though it was propped statically for close to 11,000 rpm, he seldom ran it full throttle except for take-off. I don't remember it running rich for the previous owner. I was at the field with the engine the majority of its use.
After I obtained the engine, it sat around for 3 years until recently. When I got the engine, the intake manifold was in terrible shape (like most Saito 72's). I installed a new back plate and O-rings when I first got it.
I played around with the Saito 72 today. The muffler pressure nipple had come out of the muffler and the previous owner had installed a new larger nipple prior to the rear baffle. I happened to have a new muffler. The engine ran a little better but still too rich with the idle screw all the way in.
Then I looked at the idle speed adjustment screw for a flat side and sure enough it had a flat side on the locating pin. I turn the screw to make the flat side not make any difference. Engine better but still rich.
I would venture to say that the engine is now lean enough in lower midrange to be usable as it is.
I removed the carb and the cat eye on the spray bar is exactly in line towards the engine. There was no apparent wear on the spray bar or inside the idle needle. There was also no apparent wear on the groove of the barrel. The spring was present.
I did notice the O-rings that seal the intake tube top and bottom were marginal but they should make me have the opposite problem and make the engine run lean.
I tried a different Top Flite wood 13-6 instead of the normal APC 13-6 and that seemed to make no difference.
Before I had traded for the engine, it had spent most of it's life on Pizzaz 3D planes and Heli 30 fuel. Though it was propped statically for close to 11,000 rpm, he seldom ran it full throttle except for take-off. I don't remember it running rich for the previous owner. I was at the field with the engine the majority of its use.
After I obtained the engine, it sat around for 3 years until recently. When I got the engine, the intake manifold was in terrible shape (like most Saito 72's). I installed a new back plate and O-rings when I first got it.